For an in depth look at how I use a hat with a resin base, with photo examples, please click this link.
inside a resin head
here is a look at how neck vision works
For an in depth look at the inside of a foam head including photo examples click this link
Here is a A look at how Quadsuit heads fit and how the whole thing works
An inside look at body suits
hand sewn padding pockets, I used to sue lycra but now I like neoprene
Here is an inside look at the room where I live and make things
My heads are built on a baseball cap. Being built on a baseball cap means they are easily adjustable not only to head size but where they sit on your head allowing you place the face lower or higher based on your comfort and range of vision. You can also easily adjust the fit with a bit of foam, in the case of the image above I needed that little sliver of green foam sheet to make the jaw sit right since it was a tad too tight, amazing how such a thin little thing made the fit go from "meh" to "perfect" Now if the jaw were too loose I would have put the foam on the back of the jaw.
With my custom carved foam heads the jaw is hinged via tube and rod and works by bumping your chin. The movement is flawless for silent movement but does voice sync decently as your chin moves when you talk.
I sometimes work with resin bases from other makers and usually their jaws work by pushing down on it with your chin.
The head above has no fan but when I add one it goes in the muzzle where that little triangle of firm foam is.
With most of my heads the only parts that actually touch you are the jaw, the hat and sometimes part of the neck. Your nose, most if not all of your neck, cheeks and ears are left untouched allowing airflow, minimizing the amount of sweat that gets soaked into the head, and creates a less claustrophobic feel. (Honestly I cannot stand a head made on a balaclava, it triggers my claustrophobia to have my head squeezed or my ears touched and I have to take it off)
The neck opens in the back and you simply slide your face in and fasten the velcro hat strap, this also allows one with glasses to get the head on without messing up their specs (I myself do wear glasses by the way) The neck closes via strong magnets glued into the folded over edge of the neck fur and thus the neck practically closes itself.
With most of my heads the neck connects from the ears back and the front of the neck gets pulled under your chin, this allows one to "pop the top" as in lift the face up like a welding helmet allowing you to take a quick breather or browse a vendor table without fully de-heading, that way if a kid rounds the corner while your top is popped it is super easy to slide it back down. This disconnected neck is not visible when worn at all as the rim is well covered by the overlapping cheeks and chin of the fursuit's face.
I have seen an increasing trend in fursuit production over the years that leans towards everything being super clean and perfect, overall less "homemade" with everything all super tidy and fancy with heads sewn inside and out (especially with toony work) and I need to be clear that my work has never been that way.
My work overall has always been more artsy-fartsy, craftsy and rustic, I don't have a production team or a studio, or even a work partner, I am one woman building these things in my living room, my stuff is literally "homemade" and I want to be sure you understand upfront what you are getting from me.
While I put a huge amount of focus into the comfort and outward appearance of each piece, for the sake of my chronic degenerative hand issues the inside is left rather rough and plain, for example:
I don't do things like lined zippers, I don't always do hemmed neck openings or paw cuffs. I double sew all bodysuits but seam edges are not overlocked, thread excess is not always fully trimmed inside, and there may be marks from the patterning process on the backing of the fabric.
Not all parts of my heads are sewn, the insides of my foam heads are not lined in the "usual" sense and my resin heads are not lined at all. I don't line necks, paws or bodies as it adds an extra layer of heat.
I need to be upfront that I use oddball materials sometimes, that I maybe like fabric paint a little too much, and I tend to get heavy handed with glue vs other makers, for example:
I assemble each face with a combination of sewn seams and gluing fur right to the head base with the fur seamlessly lined up edge to edge but not sewn together. All hard parts like horns and claws are glued, my neck closures are magnets glued into the folded over edge of the neck fur, feathers are always glued, and I glue silicone paw pads because sewing in silicone is especially bad for my degenerative hand issues.
Anyway, my work speaks for itself, I post tons of WIP on Twitter that show how everything is made, and all my Youtube videos have close ups of my finishing details, I also have a page on my site showing what my work looks like on the inside.
If you like what you see then you will enjoy ordering from me, but if you want a super neat and tidy pristine costume without a single flaw where every bit is soft n sewn and overall more akin to a wearable stuffed animal, and you don't want any face or paw parts assembled with glue, then I am probably not your maker, which is fine! There are hundreds of makers to choose from these days :)