For an in depth look at how I use a hat with a resin base, with photo examples, please click this link.
inside a resin head
here is a look at how neck vision works
For an in depth look at the inside of a foam head including photo examples click this link
Here is a A look at how Quadsuit heads fit and how the whole thing works
An inside look at body suits
hand sewn padding pockets, I used to use lycra but now I like neoprene.
Sometimes I sew in pockets like this, sometimes I make pillows that attach inside with snaps.
Here is a look at what 15 years of hoarding fabrics look like as I have an entire shed full of faux fur (to my defense styles go out of production ALL THE TIME and 70% of what is in here is not made anymore)
Here is an inside look at where I live and make things
My heads are built on a baseball cap. Being built on a baseball cap means they are easily adjustable not only to head size, but you can adjust the fit of the hat to sit more forward or back so as to place the face lower or higher based on your comfort and range of vision. You can also easily adjust the fit with a bit of foam, in the case of the image above I needed that little sliver of green foam sheet to make the jaw sit right since it was a tad too tight, amazing how such a thin little thing made the fit go from "meh" to "perfect" (Now if the jaw were too loose I would have put the foam on the back of the jaw.)
With my custom carved foam heads the jaw is hinged via tube and rod and works by bumping your chin. The movement is flawless for silent movement and voice sync decently as your chin moves when you talk.
I sometimes work with resin bases from other makers and usually their jaws work by pushing down on it with your chin.
The head above has no fan but when I add one it goes in the muzzle where that little triangle of firm foam is.
With most of my heads the only parts that actually touch you are the jaw, the hat and sometimes part of the neck. Your nose, most if not all of your neck, cheeks and ears are left untouched allowing airflow, minimizing the amount of sweat that gets soaked into the head, and creates a less claustrophobic feel. (Honestly I cannot stand a head made on a balaclava, it triggers my claustrophobia to have my head squeezed or my ears touched.)
The neck opens in the back and you simply slide your face in and fasten the velcro hat strap, this also allows one with glasses to get the head on without messing up their specs (I myself do wear glasses by the way) The neck closes via strong magnets glued into the folded over edge of the neck fur and thus the neck practically closes itself.
With most of my foam heads the neck connects from the ears back and the front of the neck gets pulled under your chin, this allows one to "pop the top" as in lift the face up like a welding helmet allowing you to take a quick breather or browse a vendor table without fully de-heading, that way if a kid rounds the corner while your top is popped it is super easy to slide it back down. This disconnected neck is not visible when worn at all as the rim is well covered by the overlapping cheeks and chin of the fursuit's face.
The inside of the rooster, created as a premade to sell and was made at the start of lock down, hence the title inside
My work overall has always been more artsy-fartsy, craftsy and rustic, I don't have a production team or a studio, or even a work partner, I am one woman building these things in my living room, my stuff is literally "homemade" and I want to be sure you understand upfront what you are getting from me.
While I put a huge amount of focus into the comfort and outward appearance of each piece, for the sake of my chronic degenerative hand issues the inside is left rather rough and plain, for example:
I don't do things like lined zippers, I don't always do hemmed neck openings or paw cuffs. I double sew all bodysuits but seam edges are not overlocked, thread excess is not always fully trimmed inside, and there will be marks from the patterning process on the backing of the fabric.
Not all parts of my heads are sewn, the insides of my foam heads are not lined in the "usual" sense and my resin heads are not lined at all. I don't line necks or paws, bodies only get lining where there is padding.
I need to be upfront that I use oddball materials sometimes, that I like fabric paint a little too much, and I tend to get heavy handed with glue vs other makers, for example:
All necks are sewn but I assemble the rest of the head with a combination of sewn seams and gluing fur right to the head base with the fur seamlessly lined up edge to edge but not sewn together, and sometimes I do this with one seam on the foam part of feet paws. All hard parts like horns, eyes, hoofs, and claws are glued. My neck closures are magnets glued into the folded over edge of the neck fur. Feathers real or fake are always glued, arm wings included. For paw pads I shave down where the paw pad goes and then glue it to the exposed backing because sewing in silicone is especially bad for my degenerative hand issues, I also sometimes do this for teeny tiny markings on bodysuits or tails such as fingerprint sized polka dots (shave the spot down to the backing and glue the polka dot into the shaved spot)
Anyway, my work speaks for itself, I post tons of WIP on Twitter that show how everything is made, and all my Youtube videos have close ups of my finishing details, I also have this page on my site showing what my work looks like on the inside.
If you like what you see then you will enjoy ordering from me, but if you want a super neat and tidy pristine costume without a single flaw where every bit is soft n sewn and overall more akin to a wearable stuffed animal, and you don't want any face or paw parts assembled with glue, then I am probably not your maker, which is perfectly fine! There are hundreds of fursuit makers to choose from these days :)