I am open year round for artistic liberty projects, quadsuits, and for anyone wishing to claim a character using one of the furs shown on my "Furs I Need Clients For" page.
Quotes for custom orders aka client designs aka fursonas are open only during the first week of August every year, do note that I only select 5-10 custom designs every year.
To get a quote email firstname.lastname@example.org and include a basic description in your email title (ie "art lib blue dragon partial" or "Rufus the border collie fullsuit"
The starting prices for my work are:
$1850 for a head only order
$2900 for a partial (head, hands, tail)
$4000 for a 3/4th suit (head, hands, tail, feet, pants)
$5000 for a plantigrade fullsuit
$6000 for a digigrade (shaped leg padding) fullsuit
*Do note that things like dragons and raptors with their big tails, wings, lots of teeth, big claws, horns and whatnot will be in the $10,000 range for a digi fullsuit.
$15,000 for a quadsuit.
Again these are starting prices, these starting prices cover the likes of a toony design with simple markings, with nothing fancy (like a wings, large tail or horns) and no add-ons (such as: a moving jaw, realistic detail work, a cooling fan, or follow effect eyes) The more complex the design, and the more add-ons you want, the higher the price will be.
All orders under $10,000 are done on a 30% nonrefundable deposit with 9 months to pay the rest in full. Quadsuits and 2-legged costumes fancy enough to break the 10K mark get a special 20% nonrefundable deposit and a year to pay in full.
I also do "fursuit adjacent" work like animal headdresses and faux taxidermy by the way, and since such orders are very rare I am open for them year round even if they are a custom design, such items are priced case-by-case.
Artistic Liberty Order Examples
There have been changes to German shipping law that I cannot adhere to, I no longer can serve German clients unless you:
- come to a USA event or have a vacation in the states so I can mail it to your hotel.
- know someone you trust who is visiting you from the USA who can take it with them on trip.
- know someone you trust within the USA I can send the costume to who will handle the shipping process for us.
Edit: The above now also applies to the UK, I have just had too many problems shipping to the UK with my latest fiasco being an unexplained return to sender after sitting in customs for over a month.
(sorry this is so long, it gets changed every time I have an issue, and I have had 14 years of issues)
Part 1: Must be 18 and older.
This form of work for hire is considered a contract, giving me money means you are in agreement to my terms of sale and have entered a contract, it is illegal for a minor to enter a contract.
Minors can still get a costume from me but I have to be paid by and work directly with an adult representative.
I require that you send me a photo of you holding your ID next to your face, this has to be a government issued ID. If a second party is involved in payments then I need their ID as well, all payments must match the given ID.
*Any proof of ID given is for my eyes only, I also will never share any real names, addresses, phone numbers, or emails.
Part 2: Items I need to build the costume.
Head only orders do not require anything from you. Hands require a tracing. Feet require shoes be sent. 3/4th suits fullsuits and quadsuits require a duct tape dummy.
Do refer to this page for information below under "what I need to create your costume" about the required shoes, hand tracing and the duct tape dummy.
Do make note of the need for taped heels, tape down to the thumb, and that the dummy *needs* to be taped up where you got cut loose. If a dummy is roughly made but I can fix it I will charge a $20-$100 fee based on work needed to make it usable. If a dummy is so poorly made that I deem it unfixable it will be thrown away and a new one required.
I require you send me anything I need within 1 month of full payment. If not in my hands within a month then at least proof it has been sent in the form of a tracking number. Exceptions to this need to be addressed with me promptly.
Part 3: Deadlines.
I do not guarantee client given deadlines, you can give me a hopeful due date and I will honor it if I can. To attempt a deadline I require full payment at least 3 months before said deadline, I also I require the duct tape dummy, shoes and hand tracing be sent out within one week of full payment.
In rare cases I may attempt to meet a deadline less than 3 months but only with a hefty overtime fee.
While I do not guarantee deadlines I do try to produce each order within 6 months of being paid in full.
Part 4: Wait time.
A fullsuit generally takes 3-5 weeks to complete, but I usually have 6 if not more fully paid customers at a time, hence a bit of a wait time. The average wait is 3-6 months.
Wait time is counted on how long a client sat and waited after having paid and full and after I have been given what I need to complete the order. If you take 9 months to pay in full and 6 months to get me your duct tape dummy, shoes and hand tracing and then I take 3 months to build your order your wait time was 3 months not 18 months.
I also should note that since I dedicate so much time and attention to the customer I am currently working on you may feel ignored until it is your turn, sorry.
Part 5: Deposit and cancellation
I require a 30% nonrefundable deposit up front to secure your place on the list and I require payment in full (100% of the price) before I begin any work.
If at any time you choose to cancel the commission before being paid in full I will refund all but the 30% deposit.
Once paid in full your order is nonrefundable at all with one exception, if your wait time exceeds a full year then a refund will be discussed if you are unhappy waiting any further.
If you find this concerning please take into mind that I have been in business since 2008 and never once failed to fulfill an order or left someone waiting an unreasonable amount of time.
If at any time I choose to cancel your commission for personal reasons (for example due to injury or family situation) and work has not begun then you will receive a full refund including the deposit. If work has begun you will be sent all the materials and everything I have worked on and refunded the monetary difference equal to full refund.
Part 6: Mailing costs.
Shipping is to be discussed at the time of completion, I will require a guesstimate be paid before your item is mailed with any excess addressed afterwards.
For insured shipping with tracking heads tend to ship for around $80, half suits generally ship for around $150, full suits for around $200, Quadsuits $300.
I am not responsible for customs/import fees. Most countries charge around 20% to import an item, please research and prepare for this extra cost.
It is not my responsibility to help with the import process beyond creating for you a hand written receipt if customs requires one.
Do not ask me to lie about the value on the customs form.
Please note that with international mailing many countries have a maximum payout on insurance and in the case of a catastrophe I can only refund what the insurance covered, sometimes this is as low as $1000.
EDIT: Due to Brexit and the pandemic mailing to the UK has become very costly and difficult with high import fees and absurdly long customs wait times, please research what you are getting yourself into if you live in the UK.
EDIT: Germany has made changes to shipping that I cannot adhere to and thus I cannot take German clients unless they come to a convention in the USA so as I can mail the fursuit to their hotel and them they take it home on the plane, or they find someone to take the costume over with them from the USA on a plane.
Part 6: Credit.
As the owner you hold all rights to use of the costume but as the artist I retain credit for the creation of the work and the rights to all photos I take of the costume
If you wish for the creation of your costume to remain private and this omitted from my portfolio indefinitely then you must purchase the full rights of the costume for a bare minimum of double the commission price.
Part 7: Payment methods.
For customers outside of the USA I require the entire payment to be done through P a y P a l
For customers within the USA I prefer that the 30% nonrefundable deposit be done with P a y P a l so I can instantly confirm you as a customer, but I would prefer the remainder to come as a check or money order so as to avoid fees.
When sending a check or money order please make sure the amount is actually in your bank and remains there until I cash it (*can take up to 3 months) I will not reimburse an overdraft fee.
Part 8: Price expiration and payment plans.
Your price quote is good for 9 months, be sure to pay in full within this time. I am flexible about payments as long as the item is fully paid within 9 months, you can pay in full up front, monthly, or all of the rest at the last second (though I am not a fan of that)
I am unlikely to ever ask when you can make your next payment, rather I will continue to work on fully paid clients and wait for you to contact me when you are ready to put money towards your order.
Please include a note with all payments which order is yours.
If you are still not paid in full after 9 months your price quote is subject to change.
If after paying in full you fail to mail out your duct tape dummy, shoes, ect within 1 month then your price may be subject to change.
Part 9: Project abandonment.
If your 9 month payment window passes without full payment or any word from you I will assume you silently wish to cancel the order. Any funds sent beyond the nonrefundable deposit will not be refunded unless I am contacted and the project is officially cancelled.
If contact is dropped after full payment I will hold onto your funds indefinitely and wait for you to come back, when you come back your price may be subject to change at which point you can either pay into your new price quote discuss a refund.
Note: the reason I require contact before a refund is to be sure the money will actually be received, because, for example, if a P a y P a l account remains inactive for too long P a y P a l will confiscate any funds in it.
Part 10: Repairs and replacements
I offer free repair or replacement within six months of ownership if the problem is deemed to be a fault of the build itself, return shipping is also free if the fault is deemed a design flaw. Again if it's my fault I will fix it for free and I will pay return shipping.
Replacement upgrades, as in "version 2.0" of an order are available for heads, partials and full body costumes, I will not make new tails, hands, wings, feet, quadsuit stilts, or bodysuits by themselves.
Part 11: Pet Allergy Warning
My work space, living space, and sleeping space are one and the same, I keep cats and parrots and sometimes I have a dog visit. I make a special effort to keep my pets away from my materials if you indicate an allergy but there is nothing I can do about the airborne dander. While I have made costumes for many with mild allergies with no negative feedback I have yet to be hired by anyone with a severe allergy. If you are like I am with rabbit dander, which I am dangerously allergic to, I must warn extreme caution in ordering from me as you may have to let your costume sit for 3-6 months to allow the allergens to die off before use.
*A couple of "fursuit adjacent" works I have done, I am open for this kind of work year round
* digigrade padding prices can be applied to 3/4 suit furry pants
**sleeves and leggings are for halfsuit use, a bodysuit for a fullsuit comes with attached limbs.
***I typically only do a bottom jaw set as the top one is barely seen and adds such notable weight making the head more front heavy and uncomfortable, the exception being anything snarly where teeth is the focus.
Durability These costumes are wearable forms of art, they are not casual clothing and they are not toys. My work is meant for gentle infrequent use for conventions and events. My work is not built for roughhousing, if these costumes are not treated kindly they will not last. Please see my website for information on how to care for and clean your fursuit.
My work is rustic and homemade: I have seen an increasing trend in fursuit production over the years that leans towards everything being super clean and perfect, with everything all super tidy and fancy with heads sewn inside and out (especially with toony work) and I need to be clear that my work has never been that way.
My work overall has always been more artsy-fartsy, craftsy and rustic, I don't have a production team or a studio, or even a work partner, I am one woman building these things in my living room, my stuff is literally "homemade" and I want to be sure you understand upfront what you are getting from me.
While I put a huge amount of focus into the comfort and outward appearance of each piece, for the sake of my chronic degenerative hand issues the inside is left rather rough and plain, for example:
I don't do things like lined zippers, I don't always do hemmed neck openings or paw cuffs. I double sew all bodysuits but seam edges are not overlocked, thread excess is not always fully trimmed inside, and there will be marks from the patterning process on the backing of the fabric.
Not all parts of my heads are sewn, the insides of my foam heads are not lined in the "usual" sense and my resin heads are not lined at all. I don't line necks or paws, bodies only get lining where there is padding.
I need to be upfront that I use oddball materials sometimes, that I like fabric paint a little too much, and I tend to get heavy handed with glue vs other makers, for example:
All necks are sewn but I assemble the rest of the head with a combination of sewn seams and gluing fur right to the head base with the fur seamlessly lined up edge to edge but not sewn together, and sometimes I do this with one seam on the foam part of feet paws. All hard parts like horns, eyes, hoofs, and claws are glued. My neck closures are magnets glued into the folded over edge of the neck fur. Feathers real or fake are always glued, arm wings included. For paw pads I shave down where the paw pad goes and then glue it to the exposed backing because sewing in silicone is especially bad for my degenerative hand issues, I also sometimes do this for teeny tiny markings on bodysuits or tails such as fingerprint sized polka dots (shave the spot down to the backing and glue the polka dot into the shaved spot)
Anyway, my work speaks for itself, I post tons of WIP on Twitter that show how everything is made, and all my Youtube videos have close ups of my finishing details, I also have a page on my site showing what my work looks like on the inside. The Fit and Inside Looks
If you like what you see then you will enjoy ordering from me, but if you want a super neat and tidy pristine costume without a single flaw where every bit is soft n sewn and overall more akin to a wearable stuffed animal, and you don't want any face or paw parts assembled with glue, then I am probably not your maker, which is perfectly fine! There are hundreds of fursuit makers to choose from these days :)
Moving Jaws: How well a jaw moves varies from person to person, it will always move at least a little but not always move so well that it can voice sync. Moving jaws will typically need the fit adjusted by the client to achieve the best movement as I always build them loose on my mannequin because it is super easy to fill a gap if the fit is too loose but if the fit is too tight it has to be sent back to me so I can take it apart and redo it.
My feet with paw pads price is very high: I really hate making feet with paw pads and am only willing to do so at that price, I understand the price is extreme and I have nothing against you deciding to get paw pad feet from another maker.
Artistic Liberty: Artistic liberty (art lib) means you choose the basics like the color, the species, the gender, and the expression, you also choose the visual style be it toony, realistic or somewhat in between, and then of course you can choose if you want a head-only, a partial, etc all the way up to a quadsuit... But then I make whatever I want within the basic parameters because, again, this is artistic liberty i.e. "the power to do as one pleases" these commissions can be great fun but NOT if you are specific on what you want from me.
I will still go over my basic plan with you before starting work, I may even do a sketch, and I will clarify any big new ideas I have while I am working before they become a permanent part of the design.
In some cases I may throw wild ideas at you that deviate from the original premise to see if you like these new ideas more than the original plan, but in these cases it is me throwing ideas around to see if anything sticks that YOU like, please do not feel pressured to say yes to any major changes to the plan.
There will generally be less communication with art lib than a regular commission as I don't have to approve every detail.
Reference Art: For custom (fursona) orders I do not mind being given reference art in various styles and interpreting them all into what I build, if fact it can be kinda fun BUT if you have particular details that need to be exact for the costume then I need a single exact art piece to follow. Otherwise if I am given multiple references with variations between then I am going to assume everything shown is an acceptable option for your fursuit. (For example: if one ref art has eyebrows and one does not then I get to decide if the fursuit gets eyebrows or not)
If you have a very precise way you want things to look then I need a single exact reference sheet with everything shown from the front, back and side (and if possible a 3/4th view of the face as well)
Please keep in mind that I am not always able to capture subtleties of shape or expression, so if you require the costume to essentially be an exact 3D copy of your concept art then I may not be the best artist for you. All concept art is subject to interpretation and the final costume will be rendered in my own style.
These costumes are wearable forms of art, they are not casual clothing and they are not toys. My work is meant for gentle infrequent use for conventions and events. My work is not built for roughhousing, if these costumes are not treated kindly they will not last.
hat I need from you to do a commission
*do you have the First payment ready?*
Please be sure you have roughly the following ready to make the first payment of 30% please note that this 30% down payment is not refundable
I do not always need a ref sheet, drawings done by different people in different styles, images of real animals, or even a good description of the design, is all fine with me If you are open minded about how your costume will look.
No "adults only" artwork please, black bars over non-explicit poses are acceptable.
If the goal is having the suit look as close to the reference art as possible then that is what I will attempt. If you have a very precise way you want things to look then I need a well drawn and detailed reference sheet with the body shown in at least 2 angles and head shown in at least 3 angles.
Please keep in mind that I am not always able to capture subtleties of shape or expression, so if you require the costume to essentially be an exact 3D copy of your concept art then I may not be the best artist for you and it may be best to make it yourself. All concept art is subject to interpretation and the final costume will be rendered in my own style.
If you have all of the above sorted out and the order is artistic liberty or it is the first week of August then it is time to email me.
Fullsuits, quad suits and 3/4 suits Require a "duct-tape dummy" :
Instructions can be found here (linked to with permission) this tutorial was the closest I could find to how I like dummies made, these instructions are not exact to my needs, please read below! http://www.kilcodocostumes.com/dtd.htm
THINGS TO NOTE that are different than the instructions in the link!!!
I need the the dummy to come all the way up to the base of your neck.
I like the dummy made skin tight not loose in any areas as the instructions say, I will adjust the pattern to fit comfortably while avoiding wrinkles.
The more layers of tape you use the better! I require at least 2 layers.
The dummy arms need to come down to the base of your thumb (to clarify: you tape the lower part of your hand) this way I do not have to assume the dummy arms are long enough (avoiding wrists showing when the suit is worn)
Tape your heel, not your whole foot, just the heel, this way I do not have to assume the legs on the dummy are long enough (avoiding ankles showing when the suit is worn)
Have your arms up and straight (out to the sides and level with your shoulders) and your legs apart.
Leave the clothing/painters suit attached to the tape. (yes this happened once, somehow there was nothing the duct tape was stuck to, just a tape shell loosely stuffed with paper)
I do not need a dummy of your head, hands or feet.
For digigrade legs mark your knee and the back of your calf.
Mark your belt line.
Tape the seams back up where you were cut loose, I cannot stress how important this is, and tape them up very well. Once I get it I will stuff it. Failure to tape up the seams will leave you with a $80 fee! So do not forget.
This is a 2 person job by the way and rather "awkward" to do so find some one you are comfortable with, be wary of siblings as they may tape you to the floor lol.
I need your knees, calf, belt and elbows marked. I also need the tape to come down to the base of the thumb and over the heels just like on a normal dummy.
For a quad stance, think of youself as a table, flat back with arms and legs straight below you, your feet a little behind you vs straight down if it is notably more comfortable.
For the feet I require shoes be sent. Old shoes are fine as long as they are clean and in good shape. If your feet will have paw pads the sole has to have no raised heel or deep treads. If your feet will not have paw pads then a black bottom is best as it will show. Shoes that do not come up to the ankles or that come up past the ankles are not good choices.
Old shoes are fine, the reason I require shoes is it guarantees a perfect fit and comfort so broken in shoes are best
DO NOT send me "safety" "non slip" or "non marking" shoes, I cannot glue anything to these!
***Helmet For quadsuits***
For a quad suit I will need a very well fitted rock climbing, ski or motor bike helmet, I light a light weight well fitted helmet (ideally with a crank knob style adjustable fit) that has ventilation holes in it for me to attach the likes of support straps to. Both the chinstrap and helmelt should be snug and comfortable. If the helmet slides forward on your head at all then that is BAD. For horse quads or anything with a long neck it is also important that the helmet no slide side to side. No visor.
No signature requirements please, my porch is enclosed and far back from the road and thus is nice and safe...I am not awake when the mailman comes and I hate having to go sign for boxes at the post office!
Please write on the box what the contents are for (ie "red dragon" "brown lion" "zebra") so I can just pop it into storage unopened if needed, it saves a lot of fuss.
The biggest part of my job is to make sure people are happy. So please read the following :)
I am aware that I make a lot of complex designs with lots of odd one of a kind features often time made using new techniques (for example: what other fursuit maker has crafted a massive head crest made of real African porcupine quills besides me lol) And thus your purchase comes with FREE repairs with the first 6 months of owning your suit with free return shipping if I feel the issue was due a construction flaw on my end.
Cleaning is NOT FREE: if you send your item back for repairs and it is gross I will charge to clean it before I work on it.
Note: If any alterations have been made to the costume without consulting me first via email then all repair and replacement warranties become void. If your costume is still within it's warranty be sure to contact me before you change anything on your costume.
If you are allergic to any animal LET ME KNOW
I keep a variety of pets. If you are allergic then I can be sure my pets do not come near your order, as well as vacuum the costume before I send it. (I myself am dangerously allergic to guinea pigs and rabbits, so I understand allergy issues)
If you are dangerously allergic to cats, birds, or dogs and the slightest contamination can harm you then you must wait 3 to 6 months to wear your costume after you receive it to give the allergens time to die off.
Materials are stored in a pet free area but my work area and living space are one and the same, I cannot keep my pets separate from my work space as I live in my work space. I have cats and a parrot, and sometimes my sister's dog visits, and while I keep the animals off of my supplies there is still dander and fur floating around the room.
ALSO I like to do photos and videos with my animals if the costume looks like one of my animals. If the idea of holding/touching an animal while modeling the costume bothers you, even for non allergy reasons, please let me know.
I do my best to keep my pets off my costuming supplies, but I opened this box of fake fur and not even 5 seconds later CreamPuff is laying in it and had to be chased out!